I’d been told to expect a large cross, but the immense Cross in the Woods in Indian River, Michigan, still surprised me. This rural shrine contains many delights for the senses and spirit. I visited it last month based on recommendations from two pilgrims I met at the Eucharistic Congress in Indianapolis.
Any pilgrimage has a period of preparation and travel, even if only a 45-minute drive from my campground in Petoskey. As I drove along winding country roads, contemplating the beauty of forests, wildflowers along cultivated fields, and the occasional charming small town, I prayed my Rosary. Prayer during the journey helps prepare the heart for what one finds at the destination.
My first glimpse of the towering 55-foot-tall crucifix on the top of Calvary Hill was through the windows of the chapel. Constructed of warm wood planks in the ceiling and walls, the large chapel glows with natural light from floor to ceiling clear glass windows graduating in size to the peak of the roof. Built in 1997, it holds 1000 worshippers. Its lines following the shape of the land honor the design of the Shrine’s original church created by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright.
As is my habit, I stopped at the tabernacle to visit Jesus. The Shrine’s tabernacle portrays a beautiful tree planted next to a stream of running water as in the praise offered by Psalm 1:3. Blessed by this visit to the Shrine, the pilgrim is “like a tree planted by streams of water, that yields its fruit in season; Its leaves never wither; whatever he does prospers.” I contemplated Jesus in His Real Presence, the living water and source of eternal life, as I gazed at the stream and tree.
The tree reminded me as well of the wood of the Cross that I was there to visit, so I left the chapel to approach the Cross. An outdoor altar and pews allow celebration of the Mass under the open sky, weather permitting. As I walked across the outdoor worship space and up the stairs to the cross, I thought about how Jesus suffered bearing His cross on His way to offer Himself to the Father on another hill under a far-away sky.
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Nature itself is part of this shrine, reminding us of the Creator’s presence in all He has created. The ruddy brown of the redwood cross echoes the tree trunks beneath it. The bronze metal sculpture of Christ designed by Michigan sculptor Marshall Fredericks solidly portrays the Lord in the moment he surrenders his spirit to His Father. As described on the Shrine’s website, the artist intended the expression of peace on Christ’s face to inspire others with the same peace. He even received permission from the Vatican to omit the crown of thorns and wound in Christ’s side. Instead, the muscularity of the sculpted body of Christ attests to the same strength reflected in the materials and facial expression.
Walk around the cross slowly. As in all good sculpture, you’ll find something to consider from each angle. You may find yourself meditating upon how Our Lord submitted to being pinned down to the wood of the cross so that we might walk in freedom.
Twenty-eight steps lead to the base of the cross. They represent the Sancta Scala or holy stairs that Jesus climbed to be condemned by Pontius Pilate. Shiny patches on the stairs attest to where visitors struggled on their knees up to the cross in commemoration of Christ’s passion.
As I left the Shrine, I explored some of the trails and small shrines surrounding it. At the outdoor plaza, a lovely sculpture of Saint Kateri Tekakwitha gazes at the Cross. She stands on a mound decorated with turtles, symbol of her tribe. Closer to the parking lot, I prayed at the Shrine of Mary, Our Lady of the Highways, who accompanies and intercedes for travelers.
The National Shrine of the Cross in the Woods is in Indian River, Michigan, at 7078 M-68. The website contains a detailed history that will enhance your visit. If you are traveling to or from the Upper Peninsula, the shrine is a short detour along your route. From areas further south, it is worth an overnight trip.
Be sure to wander the trails to smaller shrines, including shrines to St. Peregrine and St. Francis of Assisi. A gift shop offers mementos as well as religious items and books. Children will delight in the charming Doll Museum at the Shrine, featuring dolls wearing the religious habits of many different orders of nuns. Other children will work off their energy climbing the hill and trails encircling it. With so many things to do in the area, you can make your visit part of a longer vacation. ■
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